The LumberWorksForums

I had a couple of old blades to play with and i tried a different set with them.
Both are TimberKing Ultras, 10 degree hook angle i believe
I had one with very little set that i reset to 20
Results for it was a slower feed rate , dust from the kerf, cleaner log,but a smoother finish, blade traveled straight
2nd blade was over set to 30
It was an absolute animal. Faster feed rate than blade one,Dust was spewing out like from a chainsaw, lots of dust left on the log, rougher finish than usual and blades was erratic, climbed and dove in the same board. So that being said 30 is tooooo much set.
I have been reading about the 7 degree hook on the new woodmizer blades and i think i will try to recut these two blades and see what happens. Anybody want to come play with some blades?

Well if your blade is say a .42, then you just wanna set your teeth to just enough where the body will clear in the cut and not heat up from friction rubing,, and that means your taking a tooth and pushing it just part way, and that should be about .20, and the other one about .20 the opposite way, you'll use less HP with the correct set, and the gullet will carry that sawdust out ,, if the set is to great, your hogging out more wood then necessary and you'll have spillover of sawdust,, all over the palce,, I think a blade with a 10deg hook is a good middle of the road for us people here in the south.

Hey Robert, I was going to stay out of this one untill you said that...

" I think a blade with a 10deg hook is a good middle of the road for us people here in the south."

Have you tried the 7deg. bands yet? If not,... I'd be willing to bet once you do you will want to edit that statement. They are the best all around blade I've used yet. They work well in hardwood and soft alike.

I havent tried 7deg blade yet, since I grind my own,, and dont forget, I hvce that wonderfull HUDSON sharpener, that I got tuned to do a pretty good job now, after stealing ideas from the Cooks machine to make it work,,I dont wanna change it, and I've learned its sorta best to not try and get to many spiecies of blades, as there all just a pinch different then the next,,

Amen. IF you got the sharpener working, DON"T touch a thing. Come play with mine. I don't have it dialed in perfect yet. Ken

I've been sharpening mine at 4* for the last 4 years, I buy them at 10* which I use for easy too saw wood then sharpen at 4* which works good in any wood. A couple of times I put on a brand new 10* blade and tried to saw a BIG burr oak, it wouldn't saw straight at all, took the same blade and sharpened it at 4* with the same gullet profile and it cut straight 1/4" below the first cut. Now I wont even put a 10* on in large burr oak or ash. Steve